Aquascutum History: Britain's Iconic Fashion Brand

For more than 170 years, Aquascutum has been synonymous with understated British luxury. Long before designer logos dominated fashion, the London brand built its reputation on exceptional tailoring, technical innovation and timeless outerwear that could withstand Britain's famously unpredictable weather. From royalty and politicians to military officers and Hollywood stars, generations have turned to Aquascutum for clothing that combines elegance with practicality.

Although the fashion landscape has changed dramatically since the company was founded in 1851, Aquascutum remains one of Britain's most significant heritage brands. Its pioneering waterproof fabrics transformed Victorian outerwear, while its classic trench coats, tailored jackets and refined knitwear continue to influence wardrobes today. Vintage Aquascutum pieces are especially sought after for their quality craftsmanship, premium natural fibres and enduring style, making them a favourite among collectors and lovers of authentic British fashion.

In this guide, we'll explore the complete history of Aquascutum, from its Victorian beginnings on London's Regent Street to its status as one of Britain's most respected luxury fashion houses. We'll also look at what makes vintage Aquascutum so desirable today and how the brand compares with its long-time rival, Burberry.

What is Aquascutum?

Aquascutum is one of Britain's oldest luxury fashion brands, best known for its beautifully tailored outerwear and its pioneering role in the development of waterproof clothing. Founded in London in 1851 by tailor John Emary, the company quickly became famous after patenting one of the world's earliest waterproof wool fabrics, a remarkable innovation at a time when most rainwear was either heavy, uncomfortable or made from rubber-coated materials.

The name Aquascutum comes from the Latin words aqua (water) and scutum (shield), meaning "water shield." It perfectly captured the company's mission of creating elegant clothing that protected the wearer from the elements without sacrificing comfort or style. That philosophy has remained at the heart of the brand ever since.

Over the decades, Aquascutum became closely associated with British sophistication. Its garments were worn by members of the Royal Family, prime ministers, military officers and countless public figures who valued discreet luxury over overt branding. The company's iconic trench coats, wool overcoats and tailored jackets earned a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship, helping establish Aquascutum as one of Britain's great fashion houses alongside names such as Burberry, Jaeger and Hardy Amies.

Today, the brand has evolved to appeal to a modern audience while retaining many of the hallmarks that made it famous. Contemporary collections blend technical performance fabrics with classic British styling, while vintage Aquascutum remains highly prized for its Made in England heritage, superior construction and timeless appeal. Whether you're investing in a modern waterproof jacket or hunting for an original wool trench from decades past, Aquascutum represents a uniquely British approach to luxury: refined, practical and built to last.

The History of Aquascutum

Aquascutum's story begins in Victorian London, a city undergoing extraordinary change. The year was 1851, the same year as the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park, when Britain stood at the forefront of industry, engineering and design. Railways were transforming travel, London's population was booming, and new technologies were reshaping everyday life. It was into this atmosphere of innovation that tailor John Emary opened his shop on Regent Street.

Emary quickly recognised a problem faced by many of his customers. Britain's climate demanded clothing that could cope with frequent rain, yet most waterproof garments of the time were heavy, uncomfortable and impractical for everyday wear. Fashionable gentlemen wanted coats that looked elegant enough for business or social occasions but still offered reliable protection from the weather. Emary believed they shouldn't have to choose between style and function.

Just two years after opening his business, he developed and patented a revolutionary waterproof wool fabric. Rather than coating garments in thick rubber, his process allowed natural wool to repel rain while remaining breathable, soft and comfortable to wear. It was a remarkable breakthrough that would change the future of British outerwear.

To celebrate the invention, Emary renamed his company Aquascutum, combining the Latin words aqua (water) and scutum (shield). The new name perfectly reflected the brand's philosophy: beautifully tailored clothing that protected against the elements without compromising elegance.

Throughout the second half of the nineteenth century, Aquascutum established itself as one of London's premier tailoring houses. Its reputation spread through Britain's growing professional classes, attracting lawyers, businessmen, military officers and members of the aristocracy who appreciated the combination of technical innovation and impeccable craftsmanship. As London's influence grew around the world, so too did the reputation of Aquascutum, laying the foundations for a brand that would become one of Britain's most enduring luxury fashion houses.

The twentieth century only strengthened that reputation. Aquascutum garments accompanied military officers during times of conflict, earned the favour of royalty and politicians, and became synonymous with refined British style both at home and abroad. While fashion trends came and went, the company remained committed to quality tailoring, premium fabrics and understated elegance—values that continue to define both the modern brand and the vintage pieces so highly prized by collectors today.

The Invention of Waterproof Wool

It is difficult to overstate just how important Aquascutum's waterproof wool was to nineteenth-century clothing. Today we take technical fabrics for granted, but in the early Victorian era there was no such thing as lightweight waterproof outerwear. Staying dry usually meant wearing garments treated with rubber or wax, which could be stiff, heavy, uncomfortable and unpleasant to wear for long periods. They trapped heat, restricted movement and were hardly suitable for London's fashionable society.

John Emary's patented waterproof wool offered a completely different solution. By treating high-quality wool in a way that resisted rain while preserving its natural softness and breathability, he created a fabric that was both practical and luxurious. For the first time, customers could wear a smart tailored coat that protected them from wet weather without looking or feeling like industrial workwear.

The innovation quickly attracted attention from people whose professions required them to spend long hours outdoors. Businessmen travelling between meetings, country gentlemen, military officers and members of the Royal Family all appreciated clothing that combined dependable weather protection with elegant tailoring. Aquascutum's reputation grew rapidly because it solved a genuine problem rather than simply following fashion.

The company's success also helped redefine what luxury clothing could be. Instead of relying solely on fine materials or decorative details, Aquascutum proved that innovation and craftsmanship could become luxury features in their own right. The brand's philosophy was never about conspicuous fashion; it was about producing garments that performed exceptionally well while maintaining timeless style.

This focus on quality continues to influence the appeal of vintage Aquascutum today. Original coats from the mid to late twentieth century are admired not only for their classic silhouettes but also for the remarkable durability of their fabrics and construction. Many examples remain wearable decades after they were made, a testament to the standards established by John Emary more than 170 years ago. For collectors, owning a vintage Aquascutum coat means owning a piece of British textile innovation as well as an enduring wardrobe staple.

Aquascutum and the Royal Family

Aquascutum's reputation for exceptional tailoring soon extended beyond London's fashionable streets. By the late nineteenth century, the brand had become a favourite among Britain's aristocracy, politicians and professional classes, who valued its understated elegance and dependable craftsmanship.

Its growing prestige was recognised through a series of Royal Warrants, marking Aquascutum as an official supplier to members of the Royal Family. These appointments reflected the company's consistent standards of quality and reinforced its position as one of Britain's leading luxury clothing houses.

Among its most notable patrons was King Edward VII, whose appreciation for fine tailoring helped cement Aquascutum's reputation for refined British style. Over the following decades, the brand became closely associated with public figures who preferred timeless quality over passing fashion. Sir Winston Churchill frequently wore Aquascutum outerwear, while Margaret Thatcher became another well-known admirer of the company's elegant tailoring.

These distinguished customers helped shape Aquascutum's enduring identity. Rather than chasing trends, the brand became known for beautifully made garments that projected quiet confidence, practicality and sophistication. It is this sense of understated luxury that continues to make vintage Aquascutum so desirable today.

Aquascutum at War

Aquascutum's innovative waterproof fabrics proved invaluable during times of conflict, when dependable outerwear was far more than a matter of style. During the Crimean War, British officers privately purchased Aquascutum coats for their superior protection against harsh weather while maintaining the smart appearance expected of military gentlemen.

The company's reputation continued to grow throughout the First and Second World Wars, when its expertly tailored raincoats and overcoats remained popular with military officers, government officials and professionals working in demanding conditions. Although Aquascutum was never solely a military supplier, its garments earned widespread respect for combining technical performance with elegant British tailoring.

This practical heritage helped distinguish Aquascutum from many luxury fashion houses. Its success was built not only on craftsmanship but on solving a genuine everyday problem: creating clothing that looked refined while standing up to Britain's unpredictable climate. That philosophy remains evident in vintage Aquascutum today, where original trench coats and wool overcoats are still admired for their remarkable durability, timeless design and exceptional quality.

Is Aquascutum Still a Luxury Brand?

Despite changes in ownership over the years, Aquascutum remains one of Britain's best-known heritage fashion brands. Like many long-established luxury houses, the company has experienced periods of expansion, financial challenges and reinvention while working to preserve the craftsmanship and timeless style that first established its reputation in Victorian London.

Today, Aquascutum continues to produce premium outerwear, tailoring and casualwear, while also expanding into contemporary collections through licensing and collaborations. Although the brand occupies a different position in the luxury market than it once did, its emphasis on quality materials, classic design and practical elegance remains central to its identity.

For many fashion enthusiasts and collectors, however, the brand's greatest appeal lies in its earlier pieces. Vintage Aquascutum garments, particularly those made in England, are widely regarded as representing the company's finest era of tailoring and craftsmanship. Their enduring popularity reflects not only changing fashion trends but also a growing appreciation for clothing designed to last for decades rather than seasons.

Why Vintage Aquascutum Is Worth Collecting

Few heritage brands demonstrate the value of quality craftsmanship quite like Aquascutum. Long before fast fashion became the norm, the company built its reputation on producing garments designed to withstand years of regular wear while remaining effortlessly stylish. That commitment to quality is one of the main reasons vintage Aquascutum continues to be so highly sought after today.

Collectors are particularly drawn to earlier Made in England pieces, which are renowned for their exceptional tailoring, premium wool and cashmere blends, durable cotton gabardine and beautifully finished construction. From expertly cut trench coats to classic overcoats and smart blazers, many vintage garments retain their shape and elegance decades after they were first made.

Another reason vintage Aquascutum remains so desirable is its timeless design. Rather than following short-lived fashion trends, the brand focused on clean lines, understated colours and impeccable proportions. These classic silhouettes integrate effortlessly into a modern wardrobe, making them as wearable today as they were when they first left the workshop.

When buying vintage Aquascutum, look for original labels, quality natural fibres and signs of traditional British manufacturing. Well-preserved examples often represent exceptional value, offering a level of craftsmanship that would be difficult to replicate at a similar price today.

At My Vintage, we have always admired Aquascutum for its combination of innovation, practicality and enduring style. Whether you're searching for a beautifully tailored wool coat or a classic British trench, vintage Aquascutum offers the opportunity to own a genuine piece of fashion history—one that continues to prove that true quality never goes out of style.

Key Takeaways

• Aquascutum was founded in London in 1851 by tailor John Emary and remains one of Britain's oldest luxury fashion brands.

• The company pioneered one of the world's earliest waterproof wool fabrics, revolutionising outerwear by combining weather protection with elegant tailoring.

• Royal Warrants, military heritage and distinguished customers helped establish Aquascutum as a symbol of refined British style.

• Throughout its history, the brand has become renowned for its timeless trench coats, premium fabrics and exceptional craftsmanship.

• Today, vintage Aquascutum is highly prized by collectors for its Made in England heritage, outstanding construction and enduring classic design.

  
  

Frequently Asked Questions

When was Aquascutum founded?

Aquascutum was founded in 1851 by tailor John Emary on London's Regent Street. With more than 170 years of history, it is one of Britain's oldest and most respected heritage fashion brands.

What does the name Aquascutum mean?

The name Aquascutum comes from the Latin words aqua (water) and scutum (shield), meaning "water shield." It reflects the company's pioneering work in creating elegant waterproof clothing during the Victorian era.

What is Aquascutum famous for?

Aquascutum is best known for inventing one of the world's earliest waterproof wool fabrics and for producing beautifully tailored trench coats, overcoats and luxury outerwear. The brand is also recognised for its long association with the British Royal Family, politicians and military officers.

Is Aquascutum still a luxury brand?

Yes. Aquascutum continues to produce premium clothing and outerwear while maintaining its reputation as one of Britain's most recognisable heritage fashion brands. Vintage Aquascutum garments are particularly admired for their craftsmanship, timeless styling and exceptional quality.

Why is vintage Aquascutum so collectible?

Vintage Aquascutum is prized for its outstanding tailoring, premium natural fibres and classic British design. Earlier Made in England pieces are especially sought after because of their superior craftsmanship and lasting durability, making them excellent investments for vintage fashion enthusiasts and collectors alike.

How can you tell if Aquascutum is vintage?

Look for details such as Made in England labels, traditional woven brand tags, quality natural fabrics and classic tailoring. Earlier garments often feature exceptional construction and finishing that reflect the brand's long-standing commitment to British craftsmanship.