Festival Fashion Through the Ages: From Isle of Wight to Glastonbury

Ah, festival season! As soon as the warmer weather arrives and the distant thrum of bass starts calling, my mind drifts to fields, music, and that unique phenomenon we call festival fashion. As someone who loves nothing more than seeing how personal style unfolds in the wild, I've always been captivated by the evolution of what we wear to these temporary, magical cities. From the muddy fields of Worthy Farm to the historic grounds of the Isle of Wight, British festivals have not only showcased incredible musical talent but have also served as fascinating melting pots of style, reflecting cultural shifts, youth movements, and our ever-changing relationship with clothing.

The Genesis: Peace, Love, and Psychedelia (Late 1960s - Early 1970s)

The story of British festival fashion really kicks off in a major way in the late 1960s. Inspired by events like Woodstock in America, the UK started hosting its own large-scale music gatherings. The Isle of Wight Festival, between 1968 and 1970, was arguably our answer to Woodstock, attracting hundreds of thousands and featuring legendary acts like Jimi Hendrix, The Who, and The Doors. The fashion seen there was a direct expression of the prevailing counter-culture ethos: peace, love, and individuality.

Clothing wasn't just something you wore; it was a statement against conformity, a canvas for self-expression. This was the era of psychedelic prints, flowing silhouettes, and a distinct rejection of mainstream fashion norms. Think vibrant tie-dye t-shirts and dresses, often handmade, each one unique. Flares were absolutely essential, usually worn low-slung with a simple t-shirt or a floaty peasant blouse. Fringing was everywhere – on suede jackets, handbags, even the hems of skirts.

Fabrics leaned towards the natural – cotton, denim, and suede were staples. There was a real appreciation for craftsmanship, whether it was hand-stitched patches on denim jackets, embroidered blouses, or woven fabrics. Kaftans and dashikis, inspired by global travel and a growing interest in Eastern spirituality, became popular for their comfort and visual impact. Afghan coats, often beautifully embroidered and lined with sheepskin, were practical for chilly evenings and instantly added a touch of bohemian glamour. I've handled some original Afghan coats in my time, and the weight, the intricate embroidery, and the sheer character of them are just wonderful. They tell a story even before you put them on.

Footwear was often practical, or sometimes, non-existent! Bare feet were common, or simple leather sandals. The overall look was loose, layered, and deeply personal. Jewellery was often handmade or featured natural elements like wood, beads, and feathers. Headbands and bandanas were practical for keeping hair out of the face and added to the relaxed, bohemian vibe. It was fashion born of freedom, a desire to connect with nature and each other, and a conscious move away from the structured formality of previous decades.

The Birth of Glastonbury Style (Early-Mid 1970s)

While Isle of Wight captured the late 60s spirit, Glastonbury, starting in 1970 (initially as a smaller, free festival called Worthy Farm Pop Folk & Blues Festival), began to forge its own distinct fashion identity, heavily influenced by the same bohemian and hippie aesthetics but rooted in the often muddy reality of the Somerset countryside. The early Glastonbury look was similar to Isle of Wight but perhaps a little more homespun and earthy.

Wellington boots, while not yet the fashion statement they'd become, started appearing as a practical necessity. Layering was key – jumpers over dresses, scarves, and anything that could provide warmth as the sun went down. The emphasis remained on comfort and ease of movement. Smocks, embroidered blouses, denim jackets adorned with patches, and lots of corduroy were popular choices. The vibe was less about high fashion and more about authenticity and being prepared for the elements, while still expressing a sense of communal identity.

The Lean Years and a Touch of Punk (Late 1970s - Early 1980s)

As the 1970s wore on, the utopian dream of the late 60s faced harsh realities, and this was reflected in fashion, both generally and at festivals. The flamboyant psychedelia gave way to a more subdued, sometimes even gritty, aesthetic. The rise of punk rock had a significant, albeit perhaps less dominant at mainstream festivals like Glastonbury initially, influence.

While many festival-goers still clung to the comfortable hippie styles, a new, harder edge began to appear. D.I.Y. became less about tie-dye and more about ripping, tearing, and customising with safety pins and badges. Leather jackets (often second-hand or military surplus) became a symbol of rebellion. Band t-shirts, displaying allegiance to punk and new wave acts, replaced the abstract patterns of the earlier era.

This period at festivals like Glastonbury felt more raw and experimental. The emphasis shifted slightly from peace and love to a more cynical or rebellious stance. Clothing was still a form of self-expression, but the message was different – more about individual defiance than collective harmony. Practicality remained important, but it was combined with a deliberate edginess. This was a time when finding something unique often meant customising what you already had, reflecting a necessary resourcefulness as the economic climate became tougher.

The Rave Revolution: Baggy, Bright, and Bold (Late 1980s - Early 1990s)

The late 1980s saw another seismic shift in British youth culture and, consequently, festival fashion, driven by the rise of acid house and rave culture. This was a return to brighter colours and a new kind of freedom, centred around music and dancing. Comfort was paramount, but the aesthetics were a radical departure from the earthy tones of the 70s.

Iconic looks of this era included baggy trousers (often track trousers or loose-fitting jeans), brightly coloured synthetic fabrics, and sportswear-inspired pieces. Tracksuits, particularly the shiny, colourful varieties, became acceptable festival wear. T-shirts and tops featured smiley faces, rave graphics, and bold, abstract patterns, often in fluorescent colours that would glow under UV lights in the dance tents.

Bucket hats became popular, practical for sun (or rain) and adding to the relaxed, slightly anonymous rave look. Dungarees were another key item, comfortable and practical with plenty of pockets. Footwear evolved too; trainers became the norm for all-night dancing. The materials were often synthetic – nylon, polyester – chosen for their vibrant dye capabilities and ease of washing after a muddy weekend. The spirit was one of unity and shared experience on the dancefloor, and the clothing reflected this – comfortable, unpretentious, and designed for movement. It was a colourful antidote to the more subdued styles that had preceded it.

Britpop and Indie Casuals (Mid-Late 1990s)

The mid-1990s saw yet another evolution, influenced by the rise of Britpop and the broader indie music scene. This period marked a move towards a look that felt more distinctly British and, in many ways, more 'everyday' or 'casual' than the flamboyant styles of the rave era or the elaborate looks of the early 70s.

Iconic items included Adidas and Puma track tops (often vintage or retro-inspired), worn with jeans or combat trousers. Band t-shirts were still popular but often featured British indie bands. Parka jackets made a comeback, a practical choice for unpredictable British weather and a nod to earlier Mod culture. Simple slip dresses worn with trainers or chunky boots were popular for women, often layered with cardigans or denim jackets. The look was less about dressing up in elaborate costumes and more about looking cool and effortless, often with a nod to working-class style and football casual culture. It felt authentic and grounded. Footwear was typically trainers or sturdy boots – practicality remained key for navigating festival sites. It was a period where festival fashion became intertwined with general street style in a very British way.

The Noughties and Beyond: The Rise of Curated Festival Style (2000s - 2010s)

As we moved into the 2000s, festivals, particularly Glastonbury, grew even larger and became mainstream cultural events, attracting a wider range of attendees, including celebrities. This era saw festival fashion become a much more conscious and curated affair, heavily influenced by trends showcased on social media and in magazines.

The undisputed icon of this era's festival fashion was the Wellington boot, often paired unexpectedly with short dresses or denim shorts, elevating practical footwear to a fashion statement. Skinny jeans, denim shorts, floral dresses (often a nod back to the 70s bohemian style), and simple tops became staples. Glitter and face paint exploded in popularity, adding a decorative element that was easy to apply and highly photogenic.

This period saw a greater mix of high street fashion and vintage or second-hand pieces. The focus was often on creating a distinctive 'festival look' that would stand out, particularly for photographs shared online. The influence of celebrities attending festivals meant certain items or combinations became instant trends. While there was still plenty of individual creativity, there was also a sense that people were 'dressing for the festival' in a more overt way than in earlier decades. It was less spontaneous and more planned.

The Vintage Connection and Modern Relevance

So, where does vintage clothing fit into this vibrant history, and why is it so perfect for festivals today? For me, the connection is obvious. Vintage pieces offer a direct link to the iconic styles of past festival eras. Want to channel the late 60s? An authentic embroidered peasant blouse, a fringed waistcoat, or a pair of genuine 70s flares are perfect. Prefer the 90s Britpop vibe? A vintage Adidas track top or a classic band t-shirt hits the mark perfectly.

Wearing vintage at a festival is about more than just replicating a look; it's about wearing a piece of history. These garments have lived lives before you, and who knows, perhaps that 70s embroidered jacket even danced at Glastonbury back in the day! They bring a sense of authenticity and storytelling to your outfit that fast fashion simply can't replicate.

Furthermore, choosing vintage is an inherently sustainable approach to festival fashion. Instead of buying cheap, disposable outfits that might only last one muddy weekend, you're investing in a quality piece that has already stood the test of time and can be worn again and again. It's the ultimate 'Make Do and Mend' spirit of wartime Britain, translated into festival-going. It encourages creativity and personal styling rather than simply following fleeting trends.

Contemporary festival fashion continues to draw heavily on these past eras. You see echoes of the 70s bohemian look in flowing dresses and wide-leg trousers, nods to the 90s in sportswear influences, and the enduring practicality of items like dungarees and military-inspired jackets. By incorporating genuine vintage pieces, you're not just following a trend; you're connecting directly to the source and wearing something truly unique.

The enduring spirit of festival fashion is about self-expression, comfort, and a willingness to embrace the elements. It's about creating a temporary identity that feels a little bit different from everyday life, allowing yourself to be free and immersed in the music and the atmosphere.

From the peace and love generation at the Isle of Wight to the muddy fields of Glastonbury, British festival fashion has been a dynamic reflection of youth culture, music, and social change. It's a story of evolving styles, from psychedelic freedom and punk rebellion to rave euphoria and casual cool.

What remains constant is the desire for self-expression and the need for clothing that can handle unpredictable weather while allowing you to dance the weekend away. Vintage clothing offers a wonderful way to tap into this rich history, allowing you to wear authentic styles from your favourite eras, create a truly unique look, and make a sustainable fashion choice.

So, as you plan your festival wardrobe this year, think about the decades of incredible style that have graced those fields. Whether you're drawn to the embroidered romance of the 70s, the bold colours of the 90s rave scene, or the effortless cool of the Britpop era, there's a piece of festival fashion history waiting for you.

Until next time, Emma x

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