Finding the perfect fit in vintage clothing can sometimes feel like solving a complex puzzle. With sizing standards changing dramatically over the decades and variations between different manufacturers, what might be labelled as a size 12 from the 1960s could be worlds apart from today's size 12. But fear not! We at My Vintage have created this comprehensive guide to help you navigate the wonderful world of vintage sizing with confidence.
Why Vintage Sizes Are Different
Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of measurements, it's important to understand why vintage sizes differ so significantly from modern ones. In the mid-20th century, sizing was based on different standards, and over time, manufacturers have adjusted their sizing to accommodate changing body shapes and, yes, a touch of vanity sizing.
For instance, a 1960s size 12 would typically be equivalent to a modern UK size 8. This isn't because people were necessarily smaller back then, but rather because the sizing system itself was different.
Key Factors Affecting Vintage Sizing:
Era of manufacture
Country of origin
Intended garment fit
Fabric type and construction
Manufacturing standards of the time
Measuring Yourself Correctly
Before shopping for vintage clothing, having your current measurements is essential. Here's how to measure yourself accurately:
Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust while wearing a well-fitting bra
Waist: Measure around your natural waistline (typically the smallest part)
Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips
Shoulder width: Measure from shoulder point to shoulder point across your back
Arm length: Measure from shoulder point to wrist
Pro tip: Always use a soft measuring tape and don't pull it too tight. Stand naturally and have someone help you if possible.
Understanding Measurements vs. Size Labels
Rather than relying on potentially misleading decade-specific size conversions, the most reliable way to ensure a perfect vintage fit is to focus on actual garment measurements. Here's why:
Garment Measurements Matter Most
Every vintage piece should be considered unique when it comes to sizing. Instead of trying to correlate modern sizes with vintage ones, we recommend:
Always checking measurements of garments
Comparing these to your own measurements
Allowing 1-2 inches of ease for comfort (depending on the style and intended fit)
Understanding that measurements are more reliable than any size label
Essential Measurements to Know
When shopping vintage, these are the crucial measurements to consider:
For Dresses and Tops:
Bust (measured flat across at fullest point, then doubled)
Waist (measured flat across at smallest point, then doubled)
Shoulders (measured seam to seam across back)
Length (from shoulder to hem)
Sleeve length (from shoulder seam to cuff)
For Skirts and Trousers:
Waist (measured flat across, then doubled)
Hips (measured flat across at fullest point, then doubled)
Length (from waist to hem)
Inseam/Inside Leg (for trousers)
Rise (for trousers, from crotch seam to waist)
How My Vintage Ensures Accurate Measurements
At My Vintage, we understand that accurate measurements are crucial for a successful vintage purchase. That's why we've developed a thorough measuring process for every garment that enters our collection.
Our Measuring Process
Each piece is carefully measured while laid flat on a clean, flat surface. We take multiple measurements to ensure accuracy and always measure twice to confirm our findings. All measurements are recorded in both inches and centimetres for our international customers.
For each garment, we measure: • Every crucial dimension as detailed above • Any unique features that might affect fit • Additional measurements specific to the garment type • Any areas of potential alteration or concern.
On our website you'll find: • Clear, detailed measurements for each garment • Photos showing the specifics of each piece • Notes about fabric flexibility or restriction • Information about closures (zips, buttons, etc.) • Any relevant details about the garment's construction
Modern Size Approximation
To help our customers, we provide an approximate modern UK size range for each garment based on its measurements. However, we always encourage customers to focus primarily on the actual measurements and compare these with their own measurements.
For example, we might list a 1960s dress as:
Measurements:
Bust: 36 inches
Waist: 28 inches
Hips: 38 inches
Length: 40 inches
Approximate modern size: UK 10-12
This detailed approach helps our customers to make informed purchasing decisions, reduce the likelihood of returns, feel more confident about buying vintage online and understand exactly how a garment might fit. Also, our team is always available to offer their help for instance, provide additional measurements if needed, advise on fit and styling, discuss potential alterations or help you find the perfect piece in your size.
Understanding Ease and Fit
Different eras and styles require different amounts of ease:
1950s wiggle dresses: minimal ease for a fitted look
1950s full skirts: significant ease in the hip area
1960s shift dresses: straight cut with moderate ease
1970s maxi dresses: often flowing with generous ease
1940s tailored jackets: structured with room for layers
Understanding Label Terminology
Different decades used various sizing systems. Here's what they mean:
W followed by a number: Refers to waist measurement in inches
B followed by a number: Refers to bust measurement in inches
Numbers only (e.g., 12, 14): Standard dress size for the era
S, M, L: Became more common in later decades
Continental sizes: Often found in European vintage pieces
Tips for The Perfect Vintage Fit
1. Always Check Measurements
Never rely solely on the size label. Always check the actual measurements of the garment against your own measurements or those of similar garments that fit you well.
2. Consider the Intended Fit
Different decades had different ideals for how clothing should fit. For example, a 1950s dress was meant to be worn with specific undergarments, while 1970s pieces often had a more relaxed fit.
3. Allow for Alterations
When buying vintage, consider leaving room for alterations. It's often easier to take in a garment than let it out so if something is a little too big then you can have it expertly tailored to fit you at a relatively low cost.
4. Fabric Behaviours
Cotton may shrink slightly
Elastane content means a little stretch
Wool can be more forgiving depending on the piece
Synthetic fabrics tend to hold their shape
Silk requires careful handling
Common Fit Issues and Solutions
Waist Too Small
Solution: A skilled tailor can often let out the waist slightly (1-2 inches maximum) if there's enough seam allowance.
Shoulders Too Narrow
Solution: This is one of the hardest alterations to make. Consider padding instead, or look for a different piece.
Length Adjustments
Solution: Hemming is usually straightforward, but check for proper proportions first.
Bust Too Tight/Loose
Solution: Darts can often be adjusted, but major changes may affect the garment's overall look.
Care and Storage Tips for Maintaining Fit
Store items on appropriate hangers
Use padded hangers for delicate pieces
Keep knits folded to maintain shape
Allow space between garments
Use appropriate cleaning methods to prevent shrinkage
Special Considerations
Undergarments
The right undergarments can make a significant difference in how vintage clothing fits. Consider:
Period-appropriate bras
Shapewear if desired
Slip dresses for proper draping
Modern Body Shapes
Remember that body shapes and proportions have changed over time. You might need to:
Mix sizes between top and bottom
Make strategic alterations
Choose styles that work for your body type
Size Up If
The garment is made from non-stretch fabric
You're between sizes
The item is from the 1950s or earlier
You're unsure about shrinkage
Size Down If
The fabric has some stretch
The style is meant to be fitted
The garment appears to have stretched over time
You're planning alterations
Final Tips for Success
1. Don't get discouraged if something doesn't fit perfectly right away
2. Build relationships with reliable sellers who provide accurate measurements
3. Keep detailed notes of what sizes work for you in different eras
4. Remember that alterations can be your best friend
5. Focus on how garments fit rather than the size on the label
Understanding vintage sizing might seem daunting at first, but with these guidelines and a bit of practice, you'll be navigating the vintage fashion world like a pro. Remember, the joy of vintage shopping lies in finding unique pieces that make you feel fantastic – regardless of the number on the label.
At My Vintage, we're always here to help with sizing queries and can provide detailed measurements for any piece in our collection. Happy vintage shopping!
Until next time
Emma x
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